MORLAND, Kan. — As a lawyer in this little town, Jerry
Helberg does just about everything. He settles estates, writes
contracts and wills, prepares tax returns and handles the rare
small crime. Mr. Helberg is Morland's only lawyer. At 63, he
is also probably its last, for this town is getting smaller by
the year.
Mr. Helberg's three grown children, all graduates of
Morland High School, have moved away.
"There was no place here for them to take a job and
make a living," he said. "Every one of them would
come back if there was a job here."
Morland, population 164, down from 234 in the 1990 census,
sits squarely in the path of a decline that the 2000 census
found sweeping through the small towns of the Great Plains.
While the nation's population grew 13 percent in the 1990's,
the Census Bureau found that 676 of the nation's 3,141
counties lost people.
Most of the decline was in wheat, ranching and oil country
in Texas, Oklahoma, Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas, Minnesota and the
Dakotas. In Kansas, for example, there are now more
"frontier counties" — defined by the census as
having from two to six people per square mile — than there
were in 1890.
Graham County, which includes Morland, lost 17 percent of
its population, which fell to 2,946 in the last decade. Within
50 miles of Morland, fading towns settled more than a century
ago — like Zurich, Palco, Jennings, Clayton and Dresden —
lost 15 percent to 30 percent of their inhabitants. In many
places, headstones outnumber mailboxes 10 and 20 to 1.
The population of the Great Plains peaked in the 1930's,
but many communities throughout the Plains had been losing
people for nearly a century. Demographers spotted some
recovery at the start of the 90's.
"In the early 90's there was some hope for what
demographers call a population rebound," said Leonard
Bloomquist, director of the Population Research Laboratory at
Kansas State University in Manhattan. But those hopes quickly
sank as water shortages impeded growth and as chain stores
like Kmart and Wal-Mart
opened in towns, helping them grow but draining business from
smaller communities with stores that could not compete.
A town does not vanish in a single moment. Nor does it
vanish for a single reason. In Morland's case, the decline was
brought on by the mechanization of agriculture and nearly two
decades of low wheat prices and shrinking oil fields.
The staples of the community fell away one by one. The
Union Pacific Railroad pulled out in the mid-1990's; the
tracks were pulled up a couple of years ago. The Methodist
church lost its full-time pastor, so the parsonage, built in
the 1970's, is rented out. Over the years, Morland has lost
its opera house, one of two banks, its two-story hotel, the
pool hall, its weekly newspaper, its lumber yard, its three
gasoline stations, its automobile dealership, three clothing
stores, the shoe store and two of three grocery stores.
In 1973, the town lost its furniture, hardware and mortuary
businesses at once when Joe and Jane Nichols, who ran all
three, died. The hardest loss will come on Saturday, when
Morland High will graduate its last class and close its doors.
What is left is on increasingly unstable ground. Houses
that remain sturdy are often close to worthless.
"How do you sell houses to people that aren't
here?" asked Fred Pratt, Graham County's main real estate
agent. In the county seat, Hill City, he said, "Most of
my houses are in the $20,000 to $30,000 range."
Mark E. Niehaus, the county appraiser, said the assessed
value of property dropped to $25.5 million last year, from
$36.6 million in 1989.
Lana Barton, 32, a divorced mother of two, moved to Morland
two years ago to be closer to her parents. She bought a
four-bedroom house on Main Street.
"I paid $13,000 for it," Ms. Barton said.
"It's a nice house, too."
But her plans exclude Morland. She is studying in Hays, an
hour away, to be a teacher and expects to work away from
Graham County.
"I send my children to school in Hill City," she
said. "It's a bigger school, with more going on."
The rolling prairie and pasture around Morland are bound by
telephone lines and barbed wire, with outcroppings of sandy
yellowish shale. Every two or three miles along Graham
County's packed dirt roads, stands an empty farmhouse, its
clapboard walls scraped of paint, its land rented or sold to
big farmers. Occasionally the vista is broken by a rusty oil
tank and drilling gear or the bones of a half-century-old
tractor and other farm equipment. The roads, some paved, wear
shifting layers of shale dust, which April storms whip into
blistering fogs.
People do their best to get by. Fred Pratt runs farm
auctions and sells real estate and used cars.
"We like living here," Mr. Pratt said. "It's
a beautiful place. The only thing we don't like, you can't
make any money to survive. My son is getting straight A's.
He's not going to be around here."
Patty Minium Bean's father settled here in 1901 and became
mayor. Her mother opened the Minium Dry Goods store on Main
Street in 1958. Although it loses money, Mrs. Bean keeps it
open, selling boots, overalls, zippers, thread and fabric.
"I should close it, but I just don't," Mrs. Bean
said.
Her husband, Robert, 70, owns Bean's Country Store at Main
and Tiger Streets, the latter named for the school's mascot, a
fighting tiger. After school, until a couple of years ago,
"the store would fill up with kids," said Faye E.
Minium, president of Citizens State Bank on Main Street.
"It doesn't anymore."
With the shuttering of Morland High, it is not likely to
fill up again. The beginning of the end for Morland's combined
high school and junior high came last July. Shelly Swayne, 27,
the principal, waited for students to come in to talk about
courses and sports for the next year.
"We kept waiting for people to walk in the door, and
they never came," Ms. Swayne said. Days later, she said,
"other schools started requesting our students' academic
and health records."
A school that had graduated 20 to 30 students a decade ago
opened this school year with just 19 high school students, an
eighth grader and a seventh grader. Sports had to be
discontinued, and students were sent to join Hill City High
School's teams.
After some parents made clear that they would not enroll
their children next fall, Morland's school board surveyed the
remaining parents and found even more had decided to send
their children to other schools, so the board voted in April
to close the school. The elementary school with 30 pupils, an
average of about four in each class, has been spared for a
year.
"You shut your school and you take some of your
identity away," said Todd Toll, 43, a home remodeler and
chairman of the school board.
Terry Allison, 40, associate director of the Graham County
United Methodist Parish who preaches here on alternate
Sundays, said losing the school shook his few parishioners.
"They're proud to live where they are," Mr.
Allison said. "But they feel they can't do anything to
replenish what they had."
The school's closing is also shaking the economy. Last
year, before the latest plunge in enrollment, Mr. Bean sold
the school district $1,000 a week in food. This year he is
selling it $500. Next year, he might get $350 from the grade
school, then nothing.
For all that, the pioneer spirit still glows. Morland's
residents take pride in their smart children and imperceptible
crime rate. They relish their customs, like ham and eggs on
Sunday night at Hill City's Western Hills Restaurant, their
traffic- free roads and hunting wild turkeys and ringneck
pheasants and fishing in Antelope Lake.
People are also doing their best to survive. Faye Minium's
bank has opened branches in Hill City and WaKeeney, 25 miles
south of Morland. With 800 checking accounts, almost five
times the population of Morland, the bank has been growing
about 15 percent a year, Ms. Minium said. She is also
organizing a museum in a renovated bank building to draw
tourists to Morland.
"You have to be somewhat of a pioneer to live
here," she said.
Mr. Bean is reaching out, too. He persuaded small grocers
in the region to combine their orders so they can get the
volume discounts that wholesalers offer supermarkets, and he
delivers the groceries to them.
Still, with downtowns boarded up and shopping strips
struggling, the tide of flight from Graham County may be
impossible to turn.
But interviews with six of Morland High's eight juniors and
seniors revealed fiercely loyal Morland Tigers. Kyle Lemon, a
junior who was sent last year to play for Hill City High's
teams, said, "I still felt like a Tiger, even if I had to
wear the red shirt" of the Hill City Ringnecks.
Georgann Meier, a cheerleader and hurdler whose mother owns
the town's beauty salon and whose father works at the grain
elevator, said of the school's closing: "I didn't want
this to happen. You learn more at a small school. You can't
hide."
But in their own aspirations, the school's final classes
may be writing Morland's epitaph. Seven of the eight are
children of farming families, but not one plans to become a
farmer or to live in Morland.
Ms. Meier is going to a junior college across the state in
Kansas City and then perhaps to a university.
"I will probably live in a small town, but not in
Morland, Kan.," she said. "I'll probably come back
when I retire, maybe."
Becky Ellis, 47, the music and special education teacher,
is the third generation of her family to graduate from Morland
High. She is the wife of a Morland farmer, and they sent their
three children to Morland schools. The two older children have
gone on to the University of Kansas.
"Kids here are able to go as far as they can go,"
Mrs. Ellis said. But, she added, "I think the loss of the
school is the beginning of the end of this community."